Pātaka Kai by Jessica Hutchings and Jo Smith

Jessica Hutchings and Jo Smith’s Pātaka Kai is a compelling exploration of Indigenous food sovereignty in Aotearoa and the wider Pacific. At a time when global food systems are increasingly dictated by corporate interests, this book serves as a crucial intervention, celebrating Indigenous food practices that prioritise ecological balance, community well-being, and cultural preservation.

Through a series of insightful narratives, Pātaka Kai amplifies the voices of small-scale Indigenous food growers who are not only reclaiming their land but also revitalising traditional knowledge systems.

One of the book’s greatest strengths lies in its ability to join together history, activism, and practical solutions on a micro, but also larger, scale. Hutchings and Smith introduce readers to the concept of ‘agricultural colonisation’—the process by which Indigenous food landscapes were systematically replaced by monocultural, export-driven agriculture. This historical lens underscores the urgency of reclaiming Indigenous foodways as a means of resisting ongoing environmental degradation and economic exploitation. The authors argue persuasively that the globalised food industry has not only alienated people from their traditional food sources but has also contributed to soil depletion, water pollution, and biodiversity loss.

However, rather than merely diagnosing these issues, Pātaka Kai offers tangible pathways forward. The book profiles 17 Indigenous food-growing initiatives across Aotearoa and Te Moana-nui-a-Kiwa, demonstrating the power of localised, community-driven solutions. These stories range from large-scale marae-based food projects to intimate whānau gardens, each showcasing a commitment to sustainability, reciprocity, and cultural connection. The authors highlight how these initiatives operate within a framework of tau utu-utu (reciprocal exchange), challenging the commodification of food and advocating for a return to collective stewardship.

Another standout feature of Pātaka Kai is its visual storytelling. The inclusion of aerial images of food-growing spaces, such as the historic gardens at Ihumātao, offers a powerful reminder of the deep ancestral ties between whenua (land) and kai (food). These images, alongside the personal testimonies of food sovereignty practitioners, create a rich tapestry of knowledge that is both informative and deeply moving.

Ultimately, Pātaka Kai is more than a book—it is a call to action. It urges readers to reconsider their relationship with food, land, and community, offering a vision of a future where Indigenous food systems thrive. Accessible yet deeply scholarly, this book is essential reading for anyone interested in sustainability, Indigenous rights, and the future of food in Aotearoa. It’s a literal grassroots movement, one that encourages us that sustainability begins in our own backyard.

Reviewers: Chris Reed

Massey University Press