In the records of New Zealand's gastronomic history, few figures loom as large as Tony Astle. His memoir, Let Them Eat Tripe, serves up a feast of anecdotes, revelations, and social commentary that is as rich and layered as the finest dish ever presented at his legendary restaurant, Antoine's.
For nearly five decades, Antoine's stood as the pinnacle of fine dining in Auckland, a bastion of culinary excellence that catered to the upper echelons of society. Astle's memoir peels back the crisp white tablecloths to reveal the simmering tales beneath, offering readers a rare glimpse into the rarefied world of high-end hospitality.
The book's chapters, with titillating titles such as "The Naked Diner" and "Fresh Meat", promise—and deliver—a smorgasbord of scandal, humour, and insight. Astle's narrative voice is as bold and unapologetic as his culinary creations, seasoned liberally with the kind of candour that can only come from a man who has seen it all and served it all.
At the height of Antoine's success in the opulent 1980s, securing a reservation was akin to winning the culinary lottery. The restaurant's exclusivity was legendary, with a strict door policy that saw patrons ringing a doorbell for entry and facing potential denial for missteps. This was a realm where wine flowed at $20,000 a bottle, and EFTPOS was as unwelcome as trainers on feet.
Astle's recollections of his star-studded clientele read like a who's who of the entertainment and political worlds. From Elton John to Rod Stewart, and from merchant bankers to royalty, the tales of excess and eccentricity paint a vivid picture of an era defined by its appetites—both culinary and otherwise.
Yet, Let Them Eat Tripe is more than a mere catalogue of famous names and outrageous behaviour. It is the story of a trailblazing entrepreneur who shaped New Zealand's culinary landscape. Astle's frequent trips to Europe for inspiration, his mentorship of countless top chefs, and his tenure at AUT's hospitality school all speak to a legacy that extends far beyond 333 Parnell Road.
The memoir arcs Astle's life from childhood to the present day, offering a panoramic view of New Zealand's evolving food culture. It's a narrative peppered with social history, charting the nation's gastronomic journey over half a century through the lens of one of its most influential tastemakers.
Award-winning journalist Geraldine Johns, who co-authored the book, hints at revelations that shocked even Astle himself when committed to print. This candid approach to storytelling adds a layer of vulnerability to the larger-than-life persona, making Let Them Eat Tripe a surprisingly intimate portrait of a man who has been both celebrated and controversial.
The closure of Antoine's in December 2020, after an astounding 49-year run, marked the end of an era in New Zealand's culinary scene. This memoir serves as both a eulogy for that bygone age and a celebration of a life lived at full tilt, fork in hand.
Let Them Eat Tripe is not just for those who once dined at Antoine's or rubbed shoulders with the elite. It's a compelling read for anyone fascinated by the inner workings of high-end restaurants, the evolution of food culture, or simply the art of living life on one's own terms. Astle's indomitable spirit and fierce sense of right and wrong shine through on every page, offering inspiration to those who dare to pursue their passions against all odds.
Reviewer: Chris Reed
Bateman Books
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